Tuesday, 7 October 2014

Felt Making



I made and mixed my own felt using dyed sheep's wool. Using bubble wrap underneath, the wool was pulled into separate parts and placed onto the bubble wrap, overlapping each piece and going in different directions. This made it easier dor the felt fibers to combine together.

Once all the colours and layers were built up a piece of netting was placed on top. Warm water was then splashed on top of the felt and net. A bar of soap was then used to brush on top of the felt and netting without disturbing the felt too much underneath. This made it soapy and easier to control.

Using the tips of my fingers I massaged the soap into the felt which was connecting all the fibers. The bubble wrap underneath was doing the same thing on the other side which helped combine them. The felt was then flipped over to do the same on the other side.

A bamboo mat was used to place the fabric on and roll it up. The roll was held vertically as using my hands to rub it together, drying out the felt and making it shrink. The felt was the flipped the other way to do the same which gave it a more even shape. These pieces were then rinsed in water and left to dry.

Material:


  • Dyed wool
  • Bubble wrap
  • Soap
  • Netting
  • Warm water
  • Bamboo mat

Health & Safety:

  • Clean up the area when finished
  • Wash all the equipment and rinse it after use
  • Keep belongings tucked away
  • Put all equipment away  



 Moy Mackay


Moy Mackay is a felt artist who combines traditional felt techniques with fine art. Her theme is of natural landscapes with the use of bright, contrasting colours. Her finished pieces are made to look like paintings as they are very detailed and look like watercolour paintings as the felt fibers intertwine together, however, they keep the texture of the felt. Moy Mackay has a lot of depth in her pieces as she creates a background and foreground, making them look realistic.




http://www.moymackaygallery.com/










Clay Pots

Mold
I created my own clay pot by first designing the shape i wanted through drawings. Once i had my idea I then used red clay to build up my mould from the bottom up as it had to be made upside down. Once i was happy with my shape I then used the clay kidney tool to smooth out the surface and check for any undercuts as it would affect the process. Once the mould was complete it was left to dry out for a week and become leather hard. This meant we could then make a slump mould by building a wall around the mould using a strip of lino and some red clay to stick it to the base. Once the wall was secure and not touching the mould I was ready to start mixing some plaster.

Lino wall

Plaster Mix:

  • Use a large tub to mix in depending on how much you need
  • Fill a 1/3 of the tub with warm water
  • Use a cup to fill the rest with plaster powder (the mix should be 3 cups to 1 cup of water)
  • Use your hands or a spoon to mix it well
  • Make sure you wash your hands after


This plaster was then poured onto the mould, making sure it's about an inch away from the top so the base of the slump wouldn't be too thin and crack. Mixing more plaster if needed. This could then be left to set for a while.

As soon as the plaster had set the lino was pealed away and the red clay inside the slump was scooped out using a spoon. I noticed i had some undercuts in mine so I had to use a toll to dig it out. Then using a damp sponge the slump was cleaned and put away to dry as it was quite damp.

Once the slump was dry I poured some liquefied white clay into the slump mould, filling it to the top. This was topped up over time as the plaster absorbs the moisture from the clay. This was left to make the clay dry a little around the outside so the rest could be poured back into the pot, just leaving a thin layer of clay inside. This was then left to dry for about a week or until you can see the edges pealing away from the slump. 

When they were ready the pots were carefully removed from the slump by tipping them over and gently taking it out as they are very fragile. My pot didn't come out easily due to undercuts and the clay not being dry enough, this caused cracks in my pot. 
Liquefied clay/slip

Materials:

  • Red clay
  • Plaster of Paris
  • Liquefied white clay
  • Lino
  • Wooden board
  • Clay tools
  • Sponge
  • Warm water

Health & Safety:

  • Do NOT leave your hands in the plaster when it's drying as it gets extremely hot and could burn you
  • Clean up the area when finished
  • Wash your hands after using the plaster and clay
  • Work in a well ventilated area 
  • Clean the tools, floors and surfaces when finished
  • Keep bags and coats away
  • Wear an apron to protect your clothing
    Finished pot